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Because this looks brilliant, if it is true and not rigged. I’ve wasted a lot of time and money trying to extract broken bolts and studs with regular extractors. Any thoughts on this?

https://www.facebook.com/reel/352258422 ... 7S9Ucbxw6v

Well, It might work, in certain cases. I have two sets of good quality "easy outs". You drill a hole in the center of the broken off bolt, drive the correct size easy out in, then ever so slowly start working it back and forth ever so easy. If it moves a tiny bit, then some Panther piss helps. Also, if it is where you can get the torch in there to heat around the area helps. Easy outs have worked for me in the past about 60% of the time.

If they dont work, this is where the cussing comes in.

The #1 best way is to find a good nut that will set over the top of the broken one. Even if it is broken off flush. Since I am an old stick welder, I use a 3/32 welding rod, stick it on the inside of the nut, and put a good blob of weld right on top of the broken bolt, making sure to get enough weld in to attach to the nut. Let it cool just a mite, to make sure the weld has solidified. Then a shot of panther piss. Put a wrench on it and again, work it ever so easy. I have had almost 99% luck with this method. The heat helps a lot. Dont be discouraged if the nut breaks loose, just start over.

You can also carefully put a bend in the end of your rod if it is in a hard to reach spot. I have never tried wire welding for this method, but sure it would work.

Gene

I need to correct myself on the use of those easy outs. I have a Snap on set, and a Hanson set. The Hanson it back from when stuff was USA made. Do not buy a cheap set.

But I mentioned working the easy out "back and forth" That is not right for an easy out. Pressure on those need to be only in one direction. They are made to dig in deeper, and tighter with counter clockwise pressure only. If you bring it back clock wise it will loosen it in the hole.

So, only in one direction.

But if you weld a nut on a broken off stud, then back and forth pressure is appropriate. if you can get it to move just a smidge, the put panther piss on it, and ever so easy, back and forth. If it moves ever so slightly, ya got it whipped.

Gene

thanks, Gene, the welding trick sounds like a good approach. I don't think I've had even close to 50% success with Easy Outs, even drilling the correct sized holes and following the directions to the letter-- maybe I'm just too impatient, don't know, but they usually snap on me.

Last problem I had was with my BCS walkbehind. One of 4 studs broke off inside an aluminum PTO cover. After quite a few tries I finally started contacting machine shops and none were willing to try it. I wound up buying a new cover (200-odd bucks, on top of the original repair I was working on) and scrapping the old one. So I'm always looking for "better ways..."

thanks again!

Bkeepr wrote: Tue Feb 11, 2025 3:50 pm thanks, Gene, the welding trick sounds like a good approach. I don't think I've had even close to 50% success with Easy Outs, even drilling the correct sized holes and following the directions to the letter-- maybe I'm just too impatient, don't know, but they usually snap on me.

Last problem I had was with my BCS walkbehind. One of 4 studs broke off inside an aluminum PTO cover. After quite a few tries I finally started contacting machine shops and none were willing to try it. I wound up buying a new cover (200-odd bucks, on top of the original repair I was working on) and scrapping the old one. So I'm always looking for "better ways..."

thanks again!

Yes, aluminum corrodes, and I think sometimes is worse than good ole fashioned "rust". I have in rare cases, carefully drilled a broken stud, to as close to the threads as possible, then take a small punch, ice pick, pocket knife, or what ever is handy and worked the remaining threads out. Then run a tap down to freshen up the threads. Had it work a few times, but slow, and tedious.

The trick to easy outs is to drill the exact, correct sized hole. Drive the easy out in carefully, and straight. Then also, if time permits, several days soaking with penetrating oil. Finally, if possible heat around the broken stud. Then more oil, finally just ever so slightly start working the easy out a tiny bit at a time. If you break an easy out off in the hole, you are about screwed. Pun intended

But the welding the nut on works best, if you can access the spot.

Gene

I've dealt with trying to get broken/stuck bolts/studs out many times over the years. What I have found is that no single extraction method works every time for all situations. Welding a nut, drilling, left hand drilling, easy-outs, heating, penetrating oil, etc, all work sometimes, but not every time. I've used them all with varying degrees of success. It can be very frustrating.

And aluminum can cause a person to tear their hair out and lose their religion.

I used a combo of alternating heat and dousing with electronics -60 freeze spray on a badly stuck Allen screw that was recessed in it's hole once years ago. Took me a week, but it finally worked.

First - What Red Dave said.

Second - That video is clickbait bullshit. I see a LOT of videos in that vein. Spend a bunch of time farmer-engineering a piece of junk as a substitute for a readily available tool you can buy very reasonably.

JMHO, YMMV, batteries not included.

I bought one of those little Milwaukee impact driver things. Not a true hammer drill, but designed for driving screws, etc. I am thinking that would help in some cases. Put it on reversed impact, on an easy out. use Heat surrounding the stud, and some panther piss. Might be a good combination.

Gene